A whistle-stop tour through the steppes of Kazakhstan, the largest country in Central Asia
In November I was invited on a cultural press tour of Kazakhstan, along with a group of foreign journalists from around the world. As might be expected of a trip organised by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, we were given quite the tour of all the best that the government had on offer, involving several bus journeys, multiple flights on EU-banned carriers and too many pre-dawn awakenings.
I thought it only fair to share with you my state-sponsored itinerary, in the event that you’re looking for a quick break from Europe or further afield. I’m more than familiar with the pesky holiday allowance limits many of us have to contend with and if you’re looking to explore a new destination for a week or two, I would urge you to consider choosing Kazakhstan. I’ve modified the itinerary slightly so that you won’t have to function on four hours of sleep per night – don’t say I don’t treat you right.
The greatest impression I took from my trip was the genuine warmth and hospitality of the Kazakhstani people. This was particularly striking amidst the harsh November temperatures I visited in and barren steppes in the middle of the country. From Nur-Sultan to Almaty, and everywhere in between, our various hosts were equally enthusiastic, kind and generous.
Day 1 in Kazakhstan: Nur-Sultan (previously Astana, Akmola, Tselinograd, Akmolinsk)
Nur-Sultan, capital of Kazakhstan, and the start of your adventure. Having gone through more names than a wealthy divorcee, its transient identity is somewhat reflective of its relatively modern history. In 1991, Kazakhstan became the last Soviet state to claim its independence, staking its capital city in Almaty. In 1997, the capital relocated to what is now known as Nur-Sultan, changing its name from Akmola to Astana in 1998.
As a result of the capital’s youth, many of the major buildings and sights are recent constructs, merging the grandiose concrete and glass designs one might expect of a former Soviet state with surrealist, futuristic shapes. People’s opinions may differ as to the beauty of Nur-Sultan’s architectural style, but nobody can deny that it certainly leaves an impression on the viewer.
Plan for the day
Settle in to your accommodation.
Have some shashlik for lunch at a local restaurant. Чир Chic has a quirky rustic interior and comes recommended if you’re looking for a spot to eat.
Set aside some time after lunch to visit the National Museum of Kazakhstan. This is a good place to get a concise download of all things Kazakhstan, for context behind what you’ll be seeing over the next few days. We had a museum guide take us through all the exhibits, explaining to us its history, its people’s nomadic roots and modern-day culture. Don’t worry if you don’t get the importance of the horse in Kazakh culture on day 1; it’ll be drilled into you by the time you leave.
As an aside, the terms ‘Kazakh’ and ‘Kazakhstani’ are not interchangeable, as I previously believed before my visit. Kazakhs are the predominant ethnic group within Kazakhstan, making up nearly 70% of the population. ‘Kazakhstani’ refers to anything pertaining to the nation of Kazakhstan, made up of various ethnic groups including Kazakhs, Uzbeks, Russians, Ukrainians etc. This partly explains why you’ll see a huge amount of diversity in facial and physical features within the country (dark to light hair, dark to light eyes, dark to light skin etc.), although Kazakhs themselves have a full range of unique ‘looks’ covering the entire Eurasian spectrum.
This was very interesting to me, especially as local people assumed I was a fellow countrywoman. I was often approached with questions in Russian or Kazakh, appearing as the tour guide for my more ‘foreign-looking’ journalist comrades. I gain a tremendous amount of smug satisfaction in any country where this happens, unwarranted considering this sense of achievement isn’t driven by anything I’ve actively done other than successfully being birthed by my mother. Could this be the same feeling a billionaire experiences when they proudly look upon their legacy, built upon but only a modest multi-million dollar loan from their father? If so, perhaps I can finally empathise. The thrill is exhilarating.
Having educated yourself on Kazakhstan’s history, head on over to the Nur Alem museum for a more futuristic perspective on the country. Site of EXPO-2017, it was the location of the first world fair to take place in Central Asia, as well as in a post-Soviet region. The architecture itself is impressive, as the world’s first and largest completely spherical building. More importantly, the theme of EXPO-2017 was ‘Future Energy’. Exhibits and the building’s design reflect this commitment to a sustainable future. Each floor walks you through a particular area of energy produced by Kazakhstan, with a clear emphasis on building clean solutions for the future. This site does a far better job than I can of explaining the exact science behind the building’s sustainability, as well as providing some actual numbers . Try and time your visit so that you can see the interior and exterior illuminated at night (by eco-friendly onsite wind turbines and solar photovoltaics).
With your first day in Kazakhstan successfully under your belt, head back to your accommodation for some shut-eye in preparation for the week ahead. I stayed at the Hilton, where doubles start from ~$86 USD / night.
Day 2: Nur-Sultan / Shymkent
Hit up Baiterek Tower in the morning for daylight views over the city. The image of the poplar tree (‘baiterek’) is hugely symbolic to the state of Kazakhstan. The trunk, roots and branches all represent different stages of life. Baiterek Tower is based on this; the tower’s ‘branches’ protecting a golden orb representing the sun, and by extension, Kazakhstan. The word ‘baiterek’ itself also means ‘reliance’ or ‘support’. Astana (as it was known) became the capital in 1997. Baiterek Tower is 97 metres tall. As with many Kazakhstani landmarks, much symbolism is crammed into the design, penetrating into obscure nooks and crannies.
Have lunch nearby and work off those meat sweats by taking a meander around afterwards. Nur Astana Mosque, Hazrat Sultan Mosque, Khan Shatyr Entertainment Centre and the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation are all within walking distance of Baiterek Tower. Good lunch spots include Saksaul, The Kitchen and Ресторан “Z-1”.
Fly to Shymkent in the evening. Qazaq, Bek Air and SCAT Airlines run direct flights from Nur-Sultan, ranging from $50-100.
Check-in to your accommodation in Shymkent. I was put up in the 4-star Canvas Hotel, offering clean and elegant rooms from a very reasonable $60 / night. A large selection of other hotel options are available.
Day 3: Shymkent (for Turkestan)
Wake up early for the 2-2.5 hour journey to Turkestan. Head to Bekzhan Bazaar (Бекжан) and look for minivans with the destination ‘Turkestan’ on the windshield. You can show the driver “Қожа Ахмет Яссауи Кесенесі” so that they can drop you off at the Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi directly (or try saying ‘Yasawi’). The bus fare should be around 600-800 KZT (~$1.50-2.00). You could also try taking the train if interested, although this offers less departure time flexibility and takes longer (times and prices here).
First stop, Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi. Arguably the highlight of Turkestan’s myriad historical sites. If the minivan hasn’t already dropped you here, flag down a taxi and show them ‘Қожа Ахмет Яссауи Кесенесі’. This should cost around 500 KZT (~$1.30). Entrance is also 500 KZT.
Timur, founder of the Timurid empire, ordered the construction of the Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi in the late 14th century. Impeccably preserved, and one of the best examples of Timurid construction still intact. Many more turquoise-domed, intricately-tiled structures can be found in Uzbekistan, as Samarkand was the empire’s capital. Think of this mausoleum as a gateway drug into the mesmerising world of Timurid architecture, representing an empire that spanned 1.7 million square miles.
If you still have daylight hours to spare and are a culture vulture with an insatiable appetite, you could consider stopping by Otrar on your way back to Shymkent. Once an incredibly important city on the Silk Road and now a ghost town, it’s desolate and bleak, with dusty ruins and little in the way of amenities. The Mausoleum of Arystan Bab is worth a visit if you choose to head to Otrar, as one of the holiest places in Central Asia for Muslims. Pilgrims make a stop here and then continue their pilgrimage to the Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi. Arystan Bab was Khoja Ahmed Yasawi’s teacher (both were very important Sufi mystics), so this order of proceedings is not coincidental. Arystan Bab also lived to be 400 years old but unfortunately the Guinness Book of World Records hadn’t been invented yet. If you don’t want to break tradition, pay your homages here before you resume your journey to Turkestan instead. Again, taxis or minivans are your friend.
Head back to Shymkent in the late afternoon / early evening.
Day 4: Shymkent / Almaty
Fly to Almaty in the morning. SCAT Airlines and Air Astana both have morning flights from Shymkent to Almaty for ~$25-30 one way (looking at tickets 3 months in advance).
Check-in to your hotel, you’ll have plenty of good, affordable options here. Have some lunch and do some exploring around the city.
Just before sunset, take the cable car or walk up to Kok Tobe. There’s a little souvenir shop at the top for any trinkets you want to purchase for lucky friends and family. Here, you’ll be able to admire the shimmering city lights from afar once the sun goes down.
Have dinner at Kianu, an insight into the young and trendy burgeoning class representative of Kazakhstan’s future. Keanu Reeves, the Canadian actor of Eurasian blood, is actually the namesake for this restaurant. The owners’ justification for this is that like Keanu, Kazakhstan is a marriage between East and West. Slightly tenuous link but who can blame them? Everyone loves Keanu.
Day 5: Almaty (for Medeu and Shymbulak)
Edging further south, harsher landscapes give way to loose powder-capped mountains, crowned with soft icing sugar peaks. Verdant grasslands carpet the valleys. Get the best view of this by heading to the largest ski resort in Central Asia, Shymbulak. If you’re impressed by royal stamps of approval, Prince Harry skied here in 2014. Benefits include a longer ski season than European resorts, highly affordable ski passes (a weekday pass costs 6500 KZT, ~$16), great après-ski in nearby Almaty and no crowds. The main drawback is its small size compared to more well-known ski destinations. However, it still hosts 20km of runs for all levels.
If you don’t ski or snowboard, the world’s largest ice rink is just 30 minutes from Shymbulak (closer to Almaty). A scenic cable car ride takes you from Medeu to Shymbulak.
There are also several different hiking trails around that show off the beauty of this area. These include the Kimassar, Kok-Zhailyau and Shymbulak trails (the latter leading you to the ski resort and taking ~2 hours).
It’s very easy to get to Medeu / Shymbulak by public transport from Almaty.
Day 6: Almaty / Nur-Sultan
Fly back to Nur-Sultan in the morning or early afternoon. Check-in to your hotel and get ready for dinner and the opera.
President Nursultan Nazarbayev resigned in March 2019 and Astana was renamed Nur-Sultan. He’d held onto power for over three decades, as one of the longest-serving non-royal leaders in the world… Astana Opera retained its original name. Even if you’re not the biggest fan of opera, I’d recommend visiting for the space itself. Opulent red velvet and gold fittings adorn the walls, floors and ceiling. It’ll probably also be the most budget-friendly opera experience you’ll find (tickets range from $4-$15). Buy your tickets at the beginning of your trip if you’re very organised. If not, make some time before dinner to check out the pickings at the box office and reserve your seats.
Day 7: Nur-Sultan
Ending back where you started, fly out of Nur-Sultan. I hope this tour will have illuminated some of Kazakhstan’s sights and wonders for you. It certainly set my gears in motion for a longer trip to be planned (and more forays into the rest of Central Asia).
If you want to modify this to fit a longer timeline, lucky you! Just add a few extra days in the Almaty region. Uzbekistan is not far from Shymkent (2 hours on the road), so you could also adapt your itinerary to include this gem of a country. I’m looking forward to the day I can return to Kazakhstan and take a much-needed deeper exploration.
